Easy And Fast Way To Make your own Cool Tube
Of course this is not a new idea. It should be simple informative tutorial based on my experience in finding the solution to make cool tube. I could not clean or detailed instructions on how to make a cool tube Pyrex bake-round. They all leave the fine detail, or use as an adhesive tape, random messages and so on, which is considered not very nice, not to mention the risk of sound. It is for those who want a strong, clean, easy to want to put together equipment for their configuration.
Cool Tube
It is a comprehensive guide on how to connect your own cool tube. You can make a gathering of these in about 20 minutes or less. It is based on a 150-watt HPS-based setup, but can be adapted as needed 250, 400, 600, and perhaps 1000W.
What you need, you can most of them on the Internet, eBay, Amazon and others to find.:
1 x Pyrex Bake-tubular (long set, but easily on eBay and ads, flea markets, etc. – a surprisingly common) – $ 10-15
1 x pair Cafe Rod brackets (hardware store where the window fittings) – $ 1.50
1 ceramic medium base lamps or mogul runs with standard holes – $ 0.99
1 “x 1″ -1.5 “(approx.) hose clamp – $ 0.80
1 x 3.5 “-4″ (approx) hose clamp – $ 1.00
2 x 4.5 “-5″ (approx.) hose clamps – $ 2.50
1 x roll of sticky foam insulation, hot water pipes. – $ 2.50
1 x # 6-32 x 3 / 8 “(machine screws with nuts) – $ 0.99
1 x Universal (including glass) or epoxy glue (optional) – $ 3.00
1 x 400 ° F silicone sealant for a small tube – $ 2.50
Your HPS / 4 “channel system – N / A
Cool Tube
Step 1:
Enter your cafe rod brackets, lamp base and screws.
Remove one of the cafes and bars, such as bending shape in the next picture (you can have something to contribute, for example, a pair of pliers) are shown.
Add a cafe bar of the lamp socket mounting hole with a bolt and nut.
Connect your power supply wire lamp socket. The white wire should be on the silver screw and black wire to the brass screw-off (which is the standard color coding) in connection connect. I’m a little solder for good measure. Leave the ground wire (green), out now, it is advisable to leave a little more than others.
Cut and bend the rest of the cafe bar in three sections with tabs at the end of the show. The longest / middle part is a measure of 1 & 1 / 8 “on each (medium) or 7 / 8″ (Tycoon). The following chapters are very long, but about ½ “is good. This is your fill.
Attach the spacer to the lamp socket as shown. Use epoxy glue or, if desired, without suspension, if everything is fixed in place.
Step 2:
Hang your light collection by the end of the bake-round. You will notice that there are some slight play between the spacer in the outlet and the inner tube (if not measured correctly and the odd size jack). This is a deliberate and to take into account possible thermal expansion of the metal. Assembly seals securely to crack or burst pipe!
Place bulb in the socket and hook to hang over the edge of the glass tube ~ 4 “Clamp. Tack hooks and clips with epoxy / glue added strength (still laminated suspension can be popped off, so do not worry too much about how light bulbs to change).
Step 3:
Wrap self-adhesive insulating foam around the end of each tube, as shown (or only one if you are the only exhaust). This allows the 4 “channel match very closely with the tube (which in itself is a 3 ¾” OD) and also serves as a gasket / seal as tense.
Thread wires through the channels to the channels in the tube and add clip on the spot. Complete with silicone sealant, if desired. Connect the ground channel or cafe rod hook.
Add optional reflector unsealed device rigid connection is established (see the link to your hardware store – a piece of sheet metal with a snap together seam that was not connected). Cut to length, cut half-inch flanges on the ends, and suspension for the channel / pipe. Hang your lantern with a light chain from the hardware store on their feet. Appointed in accordance with the chain on the stereo channel.
You’re done making cool tube!
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